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Soaking in Hokkaido: Hot Springs, Seafood, and Scenic Drives



Getting There 

Our adventure began with a cross-continental journey—first flying from Northern Virginia to the Bay Area, where we met up with my parents-in-law. From there, we embarked on a long-haul flight to Hokkaido via Taiwan, departing from San Francisco International Airport. Though the trip was long, the excitement of the adventure ahead kept our spirits high.


What to Bring

Exploring Japan by car? Don’t forget an International Driver’s License! Car rentals require it, along with your regular driver’s license.

Even though our rental car came equipped with a navigation system, nothing beats the convenience of Google Maps on a smartphone.

Late October in Hokkaido brings crisp air and chilly temperatures, often dropping to freezing. A winter jacket is a must to stay warm while enjoying the stunning fall scenery.

Schedule

Day 0, Sun Oct 16

We kicked off our journey with a reunion in the Bay Area before boarding our flight from SFO to CTS via TPE the next day.

Day 1, Mon Oct 17

Touching down at Chitose Airport (CTS) around 1:30 PM, we savored a quick but delicious meal—a comforting bowl of beef noodle soup and a refreshing bubble tea—during our layover in Taipei.
Beef Noodle

By 3:00 PM, a driver from Times Car Rental greeted us at the airport and whisked us away to pick up our midsize rental car. With a Hokkaido Expressway Pass in hand, we were ready to hit the road, breezing through tolls without a hitch.

Our first stop: Noboribetsu, an hour’s drive away. We checked into Mahoroba, an all-inclusive retreat boasting an incredible selection of seafood delicacies for breakfast and dinner, alongside indoor and outdoor hot springs of varying temperatures and minerals. The perfect way to unwind after a long journey!

Hotel Mahoroba
Day 2, Tue Oct 18

We began the day with a short but breathtaking hike to Hell Valley, a geothermal wonderland just a ten-minute walk from our hotel. 

Hell Valley
Nearby, we indulged in a free natural footbath, soaking our feet in warm, mineral-rich waters.

Oyunuma River Natural Footbath

By 11 AM, it was time to check out and continue our journey. We made a scenic stop at Onuma Quasi-National Park before driving onward to Hakodate, where we settled into the Comfort Hotel for the night.


Day 3, Wed Oct 19

Rising early, we explored the Morning Market (Hakodate Asaichi), a seafood lover’s paradise filled with bustling stalls and vibrant flavors at every turn.
Later, we ascended Goryokaku Tower, taking in an awe-inspiring panoramic view of the town, then wandered the historic grounds of Goryokaku Park.


Our next destination: Hakodate Meijikan, where we enjoyed a leisurely walking tour. 



From there, we retraced our steps back to the Morning Market for lunch before embarking on a scenic drive to Toyako.

After a two-and-a-half-hour journey, we arrived at Lake View Toya Nonokaze Resort—easily our favorite accommodation of the trip. With its stunning lakeside open-air hot springs and an extravagant selection of fresh seafood and desserts, it was an absolute dream.


Day 4, Thu Oct 20

With the coastline as our guide, we drove north, stopping at a few must-see spots along the way—Lake Hill Farm, the breathtaking Sairo Observation Deck, and Nikka Whisky Yoichi Distillery, where we enjoyed complimentary tastings.



By afternoon, we arrived in Otaru, a charming town known for its fresh seafood and picturesque canals.

Day 5, Fri Oct 21

We started the day exploring Sakaimachi, a historic shopping street, before strolling along the famous Otaru Canal.


Rather than opting for the quirky ice cream flavors at Kita no Ice Cream shop, we indulged in a rich, decadent cheesecake from LeTao Pastry Shop—a decision we did not regret!

A delightful sushi meal at 廻転ずしとっぴー小樽運河通店 fueled us for the drive to Sapporo. Originally, we planned to take the scenic route via Houheikyou Dam, but snow had closed the road, so we took the faster highway route instead.


Day 6, Sat Oct 22

Sapporo greeted us with crisp autumn air and vibrant fall colors. We spent the day soaking in the city’s charm, visiting Hokkaido Shrine, Odori Park, Nijo Market, and the tranquil Nakajima Koen. A stop at the Sapporo Beer Museum rounded out our day, where we sampled some of the region’s finest brews.

Day 7, Sun Oct 23

On our final day in Hokkaido, we squeezed in one last adventure before heading to Chitose Airport—visiting the iconic Mt. Okura Ski Jump Stadium, a historic site from the 1972 Winter Olympics. Standing atop the jump, we could almost feel the rush of the skiers who once soared through the air from this very spot.


With hearts full of memories and cameras full of photos, we boarded our flight to Taiwan, already reminiscing about the incredible journey through Hokkaido.

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